It appears to me that there are three types of traveler. The first type is the Hundred Mile An Hour Traveler, who wants to do everything fast. He/she wants to catch a rope swing onto a hovercraft, ride off a cliff and land slap bang in a tribal village...all in the course of a day. This kind of traveler feels there is no time to 'waste' given the amount of things they want to see and do in their chosen land. The second type of traveler is the drunk traveler. The drunk traveler alludes to being interested in local culture but ultimately wants to drink cheap alcohol and talk to people. He/she is usually good fun and entertaining but might as well be sat on Blackpool promenade in a boozer. And then there is the type of traveler I am. The Ambling Traveler. The traveler who likes to see things at his own pace, getting sozzled along the way.
I've seen and done a lot at the half way point of my trip. I've trekked through the jungle, snorkelled around islands, motorbiked through mountains and rafted down rivers. I've also been stupendously drunk a lot of the time. Arriving in Chiang Mai it appears that this city lends itself to my needs. There is plenty to do and plenty of bars but the town has a slow, downbeat tempo. It kind of reminds me of the outskirts of a large industrial American city, Detroit say, or Seattle. Wide spacious roads allow everyone a little bit of peace and tranquility, unlike Bangkok.
When I arrive in a new town or city I like to pot around for a day or two, watching the locals interact in their home's or workplace. For the Hundred Mile An Hour Traveler this may seem like a 'waste' of time but for me this time is golden. Yesterday I sat and watched Thai's play bowling for twenty minutes or so down the local alley. It was nice to see them in leisure. I watch them meticulously prepare food and fix vehicles with serious en devour. Arbitrary to some maybe, but I find it all pretty amazing. I walk down a street by a river which runs right between the two main roads, its more of a sewer than a river to be honest. The road is lined with prostitutes but I've been advised there's a good English Restaurant down here; they weren't lying. Well worth the harassment from the Lady Boys. I get talking to a guy as you do when your an Ambling Traveler on the road, an English ex-pat who's incredibly from my home town. He's been living out here for twenty five years, but I soon get a feeling of disdain for him. He says he's been 'filling his boots the whole time'; I dont want to imagine what he's been up to. He's in his sixties now and I reckon he's secretly loathed by those around him, including the pretty young Thai girl by his side. He seems to be convincing himself as much as I that he's living the dream, but his is no life for an old man. Pity really.
Not all conversations are a success but they are central to the experience of the Ambling Traveler. Conversations and watching. I call for the bill and a native waiter duly brings it over. Better than the service you usually receive in Thailand. I like to see the look in the eyes of locals, and try to ascertain what they're thinking. It's a nigh on impossible task. Behind the intense stare there is a complex myriad of emotions lying below the surface. Every individual is different of course but generally, what do they think of us? Do they enjoy our fascination with their country? Are they genuinely charmed by us? Maybe they think were idiots with our drinking habits and outlandish behavior? Perhaps they feel were a necessary inconvenience that brings money to their country? I genuinely don't know. They smile when they're amused, they smile when they're annoyed and they smile when they're angry. It's all very tricky but the more I look the more I find out.
Chiang Mai isn't the prettiest place but the people here appear more friendly than other areas in Thailand. It's ideal for a spot of people watching as any distinguished South east Asian Ambling Traveler will tell you. It's a nice middle ground between Thai vacation and back packer experience. Next stop Pai.
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